If there is one sector that rarely disappoints, it is the burgeoning gem and jewellery industry. Barring occasional marginal hiccups, the sector has been showing a steady growth for decades now. Stability, innovation and growth are its hallmark. Going by its potential to grow and add value, the Central government has declared the sector as a focus area for export promotion. India's overall gem and jewellery exports stood at USD 2.03 billion in April 2025, according to the Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) data. A recent report by market research and consulting firm 1Lattice said that India’s gem and jewellery market will reach $128 billion by 2029, growing at a CAGR of 9.5%.

We interacted with Mumbai-based influencer and consultant, Renu Choudhary, to understand the latest trends and happenings dominating the vibrant industry. A fourth-generation jewellery enthusiast and a Diamond Graduate from the Gemological Institute of America (New York), Renu is the founder of The Diamond Talk; a platform conceptualised by her and launched in 2018 to promote the gems & jewellery industry on digital media. Renu has the distinction of being a jury at several prestigious jewellery design awards and has enlightened the audience as a guest speaker at many seminars and events. She has been to several international trade shows stretching from Asia to Europe to Africa.

Q: Can you walk us through the latest trends witnessed across the fascinating world of gems and jewellery?

Some of the key trends in jewellery today is the growing focus on coloured gemstones, modular designs and metal mixing. By modular, I mean versatile pieces that can be styled in multiple ways—a necklace that transforms into a bracelet, or a pendant that doubles up as a brooch. There’s also a rising interest in gender-neutral, shareable jewellery—like a brooch for a saree that can also be worn on a jacket. This adaptability is a defining feature of modern jewellery.

In terms of gemstones, while rubies, sapphires, and emeralds remain timeless, the discovery of new mines has introduced a broader palette. Stones like morganite, padparadscha sapphire, tanzanite, and aquamarine are now trending. These gems add a fun, fresh element to design and give jewellers more creative room to explore.

A lot of modern trends have also emerged in moving beyond traditional yellow gold, toward experimenting with different metal types. The mix of metals—yellow, white, and rose gold—is the third major trend gaining traction in the industry. Additionally, there’s a noticeable evolution in material choices, with increasing use of wood, ceramics, enamel, and other unconventional elements.

Together, these trends reflect a shift toward more versatile, expressive, and innovative jewellery that resonates with today’s consumers.

Q: You’ve attended many international trade shows as a judge and expert. How useful are these exhibitions for professionals in the jewellery industry?

Each international trade show has its own unique USP, utility, and character—and all of them offer immense value to those in the jewellery business. They reflect regional preferences, cultural influences, and market trends, making them insightful for both creativity and commerce.

For example, in Bahrain, the focus is strongly on natural pearls—a cultural legacy that continues to inspire jewellery design in the Gulf. In Europe, especially Italy, I often see innovation in gold jewellery. Italian brands like FOPE are known for creating stretchable bands and flexible jewellery that eliminate the need for traditional clasps. Some of them are ingeniously designed with hidden mechanisms that expand and contract like elastic. Italy is also rich in classical styles, like cameos from Rome, which originated there and still influence modern design.

Germany, on the other hand, stands out for its gemstone expertise. You’ll find beautifully crafted, delicate fine jewellery pieces featuring high-quality coloured stones. Meanwhile, Istanbul showcases jewellery heavily inspired by its Ottoman heritage—with motifs such as the evil eye, Quranic inscriptions, and a strong reflection of Islamic culture.

In Dubai, gold continues to dominate, but with strong cultural nuances. You’ll see jewellery inspired by religious symbols like the crescent moon or even the iconic date palm, which holds great cultural significance. Women often wear long sautoir necklaces over the abaya, adding elegance while maintaining modesty.

Every region presents jewellery through the lens of its own traditions, lifestyle, and beliefs. Attending these exhibitions helps one understand how design, material, and meaning vary across cultures, offering endless inspiration and insight into global consumer preferences.

It’s all about gaining knowledge. When you travel, you learn a lot—you get to know the latest international trends, see which gemstones are evolving, and what designers are picking or choosing. It’s a great learning experience by building contacts, and engaging with local buyers and traders. It’s definitely all about the trade. And in life, nothing ever goes to waste. Wherever you travel, you’ll always gain something—maybe not right away, but eventually, it will add value to your knowledge, personality, or perspective.

Q - Businesses nowadays are increasingly using social media marketing to connect with audiences, build brand awareness, and drive sales. How does it work for the jewellery brands?

Of course, businesses are evolving, especially after the Covid pandemic, many jewellery brands have started exploring new ways to engage with their end consumers. Augmented reality has become popular—allowing customers to virtually try on a necklace or ring without visiting a physical store. Consumers simply swipe up to see how a piece fits on their neck or finger. People have also become more open in sharing their jewellery preferences and market trends, whether through PDFs or design formats, helping end consumers understand the story behind each piece.

Through social media, everything relevant is shared with the audience. Today, brands focus on building a story—showing how a design comes to life, from the inspiration and design elements to the manufacturing process and final creation. This kind of storytelling is exactly what consumers are looking for.

Q - Royal jewellery, particularly head ornaments, is a world in its own, and India is a land of royals. How does the royal jewellery relate to the modern designs and aspirations?

If you've been following my page, you'll know I've been sharing a lot about royal jewellery. During the Covid lockdown, I highlighted the jewels of the Nizams of Hyderabad, the Maharajas of Patiala, and Maharani Sita Devi of Baroda, among others. These pieces are truly priceless—not just for their beauty, but for the rich history and stories they carry. They continue to inspire designers even today, sparking creations that are nothing short of spectacular.

Take the Nizam of Hyderabad, for example, his collection featured an abundance of emeralds and showcased incredible versatility. Many of the trends we see today actually have their roots in the royal era. What’s changed is the execution, while older pieces were handcrafted, modern jewellery benefits from advanced techniques and technology. Royal jewellery has always been a major source of inspiration. Even Queen Elizabeth II embraced versatility, often wearing a diamond stomacher that could be transformed into brooches, rings, or a tiara.

Q: As a leading gem and jewellery consultant, what do you believe is the main purpose of jewellery?

Jewellery, to me, is deeply emotional. It’s not just an accessory—it carries meaning, memory, and sentiment. For instance, when I wear a piece gifted by my father or my grandmother, it instantly connects me to them. In India especially, jewellery often carries a legacy and tradition, passed down through generations, making it a vessel of personal and cultural history.

The primary purpose of jewellery is to evoke emotion—both for the one who gives and the one who receives it. It creates a bond and holds memories. Today, I wear my Nani’s chain around my neck because it brings me a sense of closeness to her.

Beyond emotion, jewellery also plays a powerful role in uplifting one’s mood and confidence. Just like applying a bright lipstick can light up your face and make your eyes sparkle, wearing jewellery can transform how you feel. It enhances your personality, boosts your confidence, and often makes you feel more empowered—just like slipping into a new outfit that makes you feel your best.

Q: More and more people are going for personalised and customised jewellery. Can you explain the trend?

It’s a very personal choice. For example, if I like a particular flower and ask my jeweller to create a ring based on it, that’s customization—something made just for me. I believe more and more people will continue to personalize and customize their jewellery. With widespread exposure to trends, social media, and global travel, consumers are drawing inspiration from high jewellery brands like Boucheron, Bvlgari, and Cartier.

Q: The jewellery world is seeing a revival of vintage-inspired pieces and classic designs with a modern twist. What makes it click?

What makes this trend resonate is its timeless appeal and deep-rooted inspiration. Take the armlet, for example, which is traditionally worn on the upper arm, but is now reinterpreted as a bracelet or even a choker. Vintage jewellery has always been a powerful source of inspiration because of its versatility and enduring charm.

Art Deco is another great example. It began in the 1920s and became a defining style by 1925. Now, nearly 100 years later, it’s making a strong comeback, because true classics never go out of style. Even brands like Bvlgari continue to draw from history, particularly the grandeur of the Roman Empire and the architecture of ancient Rome. These historical and cultural influences keep vintage-inspired jewellery relevant and desirable even today.

Q : You are from Rajasthan, can you tell us something about the rich and grand tradition of gems and jewellery crafting in that state?

Rajasthan plays a central role in India’s jewellery heritage. From emeralds to the Mughal-era meenakari enamel work and magnificent royal jewellery, much of it originates from this region. The artisans of Rajasthan possess exceptional craftsmanship, creating stunning jewellery, intricate designs, and beautifully cut gemstones.

Today, about 99% of emeralds are polished in Jaipur, which is also a major hub for coloured gemstones. Similarly, Surat handles 99% of the country’s diamond polishing. Jaipur, with its iconic jharokhas, forts, and palaces, remains a rich source of inspiration—even for contemporary designers. Many of them travel there specifically to explore new ideas and draw from the city’s timeless design legacy.

Q : As a well-known influencer, what is your advice to jewellery lovers, particularly the young women?

Well, I would like to say that, when choosing jewellery, you need to consider the design and wearability—how often you’ll wear it, whether it’s for morning, evening, or night, or if it’s meant for a wedding. Most importantly, the piece should speak to you. If it resonates with you, then it’s worth exploring further.

Ask your jeweller what kind of diamonds were used—are they lab-grown or natural? If gemstones are involved, inquire about their origin—what mine they’re from and whether they’ve been treated. Also, assess the design. Is it an original creation or a copy of an international brand? Sometimes, jewellers may claim it’s original, but it’s up to you to recognize the difference. Understanding design is key.

It’s also important to physically try on the piece—to see how it feels and looks. When I talk about jewellery styling, I always start with understanding my face shape. If you have a round face, for instance, wearing something too long might make your face look longer. Choosing the right pendant or necklace length that flatters your features is essential.

Think about layering and stacking, and how the jewellery complements your neckline. Finally, always consider the cost—make sure you’re investing wisely in pieces that truly suit you and hold long-term value.

Q : India is a powerhouse for inspiration for jewellery designing, backed by its rich culture, ethnicities, temples, regional diversity and scenic beauty and so on. Are we able to market these unique advantages?

A great deal of India-inspired jewellery has been created not only within the country but internationally as well. Brands like Bvlgari often draw heavily from Indian aesthetics. Many European and Roman jewellers source gemstones that are cut in India. Head resourcer Lucia Silvestri, for instance, frequently visits Jaipur, and numerous international brands source their materials and inspiration from here.

The relationship between Cartier and India is particularly rich. Jacques Cartier himself visited India and went on to create several iconic pieces for Indian Maharajas. The famous Patiala necklace was one such creation. We recently curated a series on Indian jewels crafted by Cartier, inspired by the Cartier exhibition at the VCA.

If you look at my page, you’ll see many examples of jewellery made by French houses for Indian royalty—but with design inspiration rooted deeply in Indian culture. These pieces were not just traditionally crafted but also embraced modularity. India has undeniably been a powerful and enduring source of inspiration for the global jewellery world.

Q : Can you tell us something about your page?

I’ve curated a wide range of educational content on my social media page, as storytelling is something I truly value. Much of what I share is historically rooted, as I’ve mentioned, along with deep dives into topics like fancy colour diamonds—explaining how colours like pink or blue are formed, what sets them apart, and why they command such high prices.

I’ve also hosted several informative live sessions, and I’d love for you to highlight that. I also organise and host exclusive jewellery experiences internationally. Recently, I shared my experience from the Bahrain Pearl Experience where we dived for pearls, as well as a Sri Lankan sapphire journey where we mined sapphires from the rivers and underground. These experiences allow people to witness the effort, labour, and skill that go into sourcing gemstones and diamonds.

What we see in a jewellery store is the final, polished piece—but there’s a rich backstory behind each one. I make it a point to share that journey with consumers so they can appreciate the craftsmanship and complexity behind every sparkling gem.